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Hand Plastering

Many tools are needed for plastering; however we have listed the most important ones below:

1. Plastering Hawk
2. Steel Floating Trowel
3. Gauging Trowel
4. Plastic Floating Trowel
5. Hammer
6. Internal Angle Trowel
7. Aluminium Straight Edge
8. Stanley Knife
9. Tape Measure
10. Saw
11. Tin Snips

It is important to keep your tools clean at all times. This involves washing the trowels continuously to avoid the plaster drying up on the tools, which can cause damage to the plaster surface.

The two trowels used are for two different tasks, one for skimming and one for floating, the reason why plasterers use two separate trowels is to protect the skimming trowel from direct contact with harsh surfaces.

Other accessories will be required:

1. Sweeping Brush and Shovel
2. Wheel Barrow
3. Hose
4. Hoe
5. Mixing Plunger
6. Plasterers Spot and Stand
7. Buckets
8. Yellow Mix Bucket
9. Black Cleaning Bucket

Stages in Plastering

1. First Coat Skimming
2. Second Coat Skim Thinner Than First (fill in any gaps/indentations)
3. Dry Trowel (flatten with pressure)
4. Wet Trowel (fill in any gaps/indentations)
5. Wet Brush And Trowel (use brush to clean up edges and corners)
6. Dry Trowel (polish/flatten plaster)

Method for Mixes

• Internal Floating. Four scoops of sand mixed with 1 scoop of cstrongent with Febmix. Used for internal walls.
• External Rendering. Four scoops of sand mixed with 1 scoop of cstrongent with waterproofer.
• All Plasters. Mix together with clean water the following: Finish, Dry wall adhesive and bonding. Plaster is mixed with half a bucket of water to make a full bucket of plaster.
• PVA. Used for sealing walls, mix 3 parts water to 1 part of PVA. Apply 3 coats, when sealing coat is dry apply a 50/50 mix onto the wall, wait for around 15 minutes until it goes tacky before skimming the wall.
• Patching. Prepare the patch by wetting it then apply the following mix: Use Carlite Bonding or Universal one coat plaster or sand and cement. Fill the patch level with the plaster and wait for it to dry. Once dry then PVA using 50/50 mix and skim it. If floating the patch cut the floating back 3/8" to skim. Always make sure the completed patch is level with the existing plaster.

Methods for Plastering

• Method. Work from plaster till the mortar is required thickness.
• Floating. Floating is a combination of sand and cstrongent used for coating on stone brick or block work internally.
• Preparing. Place two cstrongent screeds on at the top and bottom of the wall and fill in between. Allow the mortar to dry (it usually takes until the end of the day). Once it has dried rub and scratch with the plastic float. If working round windows or stone, wet the walls before applying mortar. Never PVA walls to be floated on.
• Dot and Dab. Dot and dab is basically fixing the plasterboard to brick, concrete, block, Artex or any wall with a sound structure, using a dry wall adhesive. The thickness needs to be approx 1/2 inch - 1 inch once board is pressed firmly onto blockwork.
• Methods. Before you start, cut any boards that need cutting. Then mix the adhesive, use half a bucket of water to a full bucket of adhesive. This will make a full bucket of mix. Apply the adhesive to the wall in vertical lines, no more than 400mm centres. Then place the board onto the adhesive, and tap on with a straight edge, making sure the board is flat plumb.
• Skimming. Putting finishing plaster onto plasterboard, floating or PVA prepared walls.
• Methods. Start by mixing the plaster with water (half a bucket water will do a full mix), make sure all tools are kept clean. Working from left to right apply the plaster to wall, put a laying coat on first and then a doubling coat all done while plaster is still wet. Apply plaster with a flat trowel, leave until the plaster has tightened up, then trowel up applying a little bit of pressure. As plaster hardens keep adding a little more pressure each time, also opening the trowel a bit each time use a little water if needed. When the wall is finished make, sure it is flat and free of holes and marks.
• Browning. Browning is an alternative to rendering. It is easier to use and costs less. You would build the mortar up stage 1 and 2 then level it out with a 3/2, and then go to stage 4 to smooth it out. Give it 24hrs to dry PVA it and skim over it. Browning must be used inside only.
• Bonding. Bonding is used for several reasons. It can be used for sticking up beading. You can use it for filling holes up i.e. up 2-5 inch depth but when thicker you will need to do it in more than one coat. You can also use it as an alternative rendering on interior walls. It is not for exterior use.
• Beading. There are over 7 types of beading on the market. You get a drip bead, plasterboard bead rendering bead and so on.
• Dry Wall Adhesive. Used for dot and dab sticking the boards to walls and brick. You can also use it for sticking the beading up.
• Plaster Mix. There are 6 different types of plaster on the market. They all do the same job, that is, skim walls. The main difference is the price. Some go off quickly the others won't.

Plumbing

There are a number of tools specific to plumbing work, but those new to the field can expect to work with:

1. Plumber's snake
2. Basin wrench
3. Gauging Trowel
4. Slip-joint pliers
5. Pipe wrench
6. Tube cutter
7. Hacksaw or reciprocating saw
8. Closet auger
9. Tape Measure
10. Pipe Bender

Plumbers work with a variety of materials, each specific to the job at hand. These include:

Common Plumbing Materials

1. Pipe, frequently in copper, or PVC
2. Fittings
3. Flexrock packing
4. Hangers
5. Mixing Plunger
6. Insulation materials
7. Buckets
8. Oakum

Plumbing Work

• Soldering . The fumes released while soldering can be harmful to your eyes and lungs. Always wear eye protection and work in a well-ventilated area. To create a solid, low-resistance joint, all soldering surfaces should be cleaned using steel wool and solvent. You only need to apply a very small amount of solder to the tip of the iron to create a joint successfully.
• Jointing, Bending, and Pressure Testing Copper Tube. Copper tube can be joined through soldering or through brazing, during which filler metals are melted to create a joint. This is sometimes called 'hard soldering' or 'silver soldering.' Copper tubing can be easily bent using simple hand tools, but it is vital that the appropriate size bender is used, based on the size of the tube. Pressure testing of copper pipes should be done routinely every two or three years.
• Basic Plumbing Pipe Work. An unusually high water bill, discoloration in the walls, or a chronic sewer backup issue could all be signs of a hidden pipe leak. Use PTFE tape to prepare the "male" thread of a pipe before screwing it into the 'female' section. Using pipe dope on a fitting virtually guarantees a leak-free seal. Using pipe dope on a fitting virtually guarantees a leak-free seal for copper pipe work, radiator installation and domestic plumbing systems.

Tiling

There are a large range of tools that are designed for measuring, cutting and applying materials to surfaces. Listed are your cutting tools:

1. Wet Tile Cutter
2. Dry Tile cutter
3. Tile Spike
4. Cutting and Snapper
5. Tile Nibblers
6. Circular Tile Cutter
7. Tile Saw
8. Tile Mitre

As with all construction trades it is important to keep all your tools clean at all times. This involves washing continuously to avoid the adhesives or grout drying up on the tools. Other tools you will need to use include:

1. Adhesive Trowel for Walls and Floors
2. Adhesive Spreader for Tiles
3. Profile Gauge
4. Grout rake
5. Grout Shaper
6. An Indelible Pen
7. Grout Spreader
8. Sponge

The two trowels used are for two different tasks, one for the floor (10mm edges) approx and the one for the walls (5mm edges) the reason why you would use two separate trowels is to because floor tiles are generally a lot heavier and need more adhesive than wall tiles.

Other accessories that will be required:

1. Spacers
2. Spirit Level
3. Measuring Jig
4. Tape Measure
5. Grout Shaper

Stages in Tiling

1. Attaching The Battens
2. Placing The First Tile
3. Measuring to Fill Gaps and Corners
4. Applying Cut Tiles
5. Grouting Tiles

Materials

• Adhesive. Powdered and ready-mixed varieties are available, but the latter are more expensive.
• Adhesive and Grout. This useful dual-purpose substance acts as both and adhesive and a grout. Close the lid between stages to prevent drying out. Ideally used for small repairs..
• Grout. Mix powdered grout with water to form a paste. Only mix as much as you can use in an hour, so that it does not go off.
• Epoxy Grout. This is difficult to apply but makes a hygienic seal for joints on tiled kitchen worktops.
• Grout Protector. This liquid sealant stops the grout discolouring and Keeps the finish clean. Leave grout to dry fully before application.
• Grout reviver. Apply this paint-like substance to old grout to restore its finish. It is available in white and a range of neutral colours.
• Silicone Sealant. Use this for a waterproof seal between tiles and a work surface, bath, wall, or floor.

Methods for Tiling

• Method. Work from horizontal batten up to ceiling, or working to cover the floor area. Most surfaces have obstacles that interrupt the run of tiles and make tiling more complicated. Many of the problstrongs that obstacles present can be dealt with by carefully planning your tile layout. Ideally the obstacles would be moved if possible with just the supply pipes in place.
• Attaching the Batten. Nail a horizontal batten to the wall at your chosen starting point. Use the spirit level to keep it straight, and use a cable detector to check for cables before fixing the nails. Place a vertical batten at the edge of your design, marking the start of the first vertical row of complete tiles. Nail the second batten at right angles to the first.
• Applying Adhesive. Apply the adhesive with a spreader, pushing it into the right angle created by your battens if working on the wall. Make sure you use correct adhesive for floors depending on whether your floor is concrete or wood. Cover 1sqm at most at a time. Spread adhesive by pulling the trowel's serrated edge through it several times if necessary to make sure it is even.
• Adding Tiles. Add tiles, building up the levels as you progress across the wall, adding spacers between the tiles. Use a spirit level to check regularly that the rows are straight.
• Lowest Wall Tiles. Allow the completed area of tiles to dry fully - for at least 12 hours but ideally overnight. Then rstrongove the horizontal batten by levering out the nails with a claw hammer.
• Applying Cut Tiles. Mark the measurstrongents on a tile using a water based felt tip pen. If you have planned correctly, you will need approximate half tiles, rather than slivers.
• Grouting Tiles. After tiling let the tiles dry for at least 12 hours then use a spreader to press the grout into the joints between tiles to waterproof the wall and give a neat finish. Rstrongove any protruding spacers. Wearing gloves use a damp sponge to wipe off excess grout while it is still wet. Take care to avoid rubbing the grout out of the joint. Check the spacers are covered. Finally use a grout sharper to neaten the grout line.
• Using Silicone. Apply masking tape 2mm from each side of the joint. This will ensure that the sealant will have straight edges when finished. Cut the nozzle of the sealant tube at an angle, so that the diameter of the opening is slightly wider than the gap that needs sealing.

Bricklaying

If you are new to the field of bricklaying you can expect to work with many of the following tools:

1. Bricklaying trowel
2. Gauging trowel
3. Bolster
4. Mason's hammer
5. Hammer
6. Jointer
7. Mortar box

The materials you'll work with on a bricklaying job may include:

Other accessories will be required:

1. Plasticizer
2. Wheel Barrow
3. Wall ties
4. Hoe
5. Sand
6. Cement

Choosing the Right Mortar Mix

Cement is the primary ingredient in concrete and mortar mixes. Other ingredients include hydrated lime, sand, and gravel; some mortar mixes eliminate the need to add lime. The mix you need will depend on the type of brickwork you are doing and the strength of mortar required.

Method for Mixes

• Concrete. 1 unit of cement; 2 units of sand; 3 units of gravel.
• Strong Mortar (most durable). 1 unit of cement; 4 units of sand; ¼ of 1 unit of hydrated lime.
• Moderately Strong Mortar. 1 unit of cement; 5 units of sand; 1 unit of hydrated lime.
• Weak Mortar (suitable for calcium silicate bricks). 1 unit of cement; 8 units of sand; 2 units of hydrated lime.

Using Wall Ties

Cement is the primary ingredient in concrete and mortar mixes. Other ingredients include hydrated lime, sand, and gravel; some mortar mixes eliminate the need to add lime. The mix you need will depend on the type of brickwork you are doing and the strength of mortar required.

Replacing Damaged Bricks

Cement is the primary ingredient in concrete and mortar mixes. Other ingredients include hydrated lime, sand, and gravel; some mortar mixes eliminate the need to add lime. The mix you need will depend on the type of brickwork you are doing and the strength of mortar required.

Repointing Brickwork

Safety is paramount when doing repointing work. Always rent a scaffold; do not attempt to do this work from a ladder. It is advisable not to use a chisel to remove old mortar, as the vibration can cause the bricks to loosen. Instead, use a small angle grinder (4.5 to 5 inches) with a diamond-tipped raking blade, or a mortar rake attachment and dust guiding plate.

Decorating, Kitchens & Carpentry

Decorating is more than just choosing colours and fabrics. There are a variety of tools specific to a decorating project, including:

1. Paint brushes, rollers, and pads
2. Sponges
3. Sandpaper
4. Patching compound
5. Putty knife or scraper
6. Wallpaper steamer
7. Masking tape

The materials you'll work with while decorating a room or office space may include:

Common Decorating Materials:

1. Adhesives
2. Binders and dilutents
3. Glazes
4. Gloss
5. Emulsion

Choosing the Right Paint

Undercoat can be a water or oil-based. It is a finer paint that is best used on metal or wood. It may take two coats to completely cover the surface area, and can leave brush strokes, so apply with care. Gloss is also oil-based and is applied over undercoat. As with undercoat, more than one coat may be needed. Emulsion is a water-based paint that is very easy to work with, unlikely to show brush strokes, and has a weaker odour. It is advisable to mix emulsion with a small amount of PVA binding, and to use this mixture as a primer coat. In kitchens and bathrooms, where there is likely to be a lot of moisture, use a special emulsion that will absorb moisture as it dries.

Removing Paint

Wallpaper can be removed using a steamer, or a number of commercially available mixtures meant to loosen the wallpaper adhesive. A DIY mixture can be made using warm water, detergent, and a small amount of wallpaper adhesive. Use waterproof gloves to protect your hands from cracking.

Kitchens

A kitchen installation is a big job, and it's important to have the right tools at your disposal. Some of the tools you'll want to have on hand are:

1. Spirit level
2. Jigsaw
3. Biscuit jointer
4. Clamps
5. Sawhorses
6. Electric drill

In a kitchen renovation project, you'll likely be replacing cabinets (which can be custom built, or fabricated from pre-measured kits) and work surfaces like countertops and islands. Some of the materials you can expect to see are:

Worktops made of marble, granite, hardwoods, or laminate.

1. Silicone sealant
2. Flat packs
3. Rigid carcasses
4. Gloss
5. Emulsion

Kitchen Installation

Plan your kitchen well in advance of purchasing materials or beginning any work. Sit down with a scale drawing of the space and decide how to lay the room out and exactly what you'll need to achieve your goals. This will help to keep you within budget and will avoid complications down the line.

Place joints as far from sinks and hob cutouts as possible. To make the job look clean and professional, arrange joints as simple mitre or butt joints. Butt joints are stronger and more aesthetically appealing, but they do require a worktop jigsaw.

When cutting holes for sinks and hobs, be sure to use a template. If no template has been provided, turn the sink upside down on the worktop to be cut. Using a pencil, trace around the outer edge of the sink. Then measure 10 mm inside that boundary; this is where you'll cut. The extra 10 mm provides a lip for the sink to sit on.

When cutting a worktop to size, try using a piece of masking tape to mark the place to be cut, as it is easier to see than pencil. Cut with a jigsaw from the front to the back, with the worktop facing downward. This will prevent chipping the good surface.

Carpentry

A carpenter relies heavily on his set of tools. When taking on a carpentry project, you'll likely find yourself needing several of these common tools:

1. Claw hammer
2. Nail puller
3. Rip saw
4. Cross cut saw
5. Hack saw
6. Carpenter's square
7. Staple gun
8. Level
9. Hand drill
10. Hand plane
11. Chisel

The most frequently used material in carpentry is, of course, wood. Modern home and office design demands a solid working knowledge of the most popular wood choices, as well as an understanding of what glues adhere best to those woods. These are some of carpentry's most common materials:

An assortment of nails, screws, nuts, and bolts will be needed for woodwork. Various woods, including some of the most popular, maple, oak, and cherry.

Cutting and Measuring in Carpentry

Make sure the metal prongs at the end of your measuring tape are not bent. If they are, they won't grab onto an edge at the same angle, and your measurement may be off. Straighten them with a pair of pliers.

If creating mitre joints is difficult for you, avoid them by using decorative corner blocks at inside and outside corners.

Try clamping a thin metal straightedge to a piece of plywood to get long, straight cuts. The bottom plate on the saw will butt up against the metal, using it as a guideline.

Hanging Interior Doors

The rough opening of the doorway should be about 2 or 3 inches wider than the doorframe you are installing.

Use a shim under the door, on the side with the hinges, to help you level the door as you install it.

Use a level to ensure that the door has been hung properly and will open and close without sticking.

Health & Safety

A carpenter relies heavily on his set of tools. When taking on a carpentry project, you'll likely find yourself needing several of these common tools:

Using Safety Equipment

Always wear safety goggles, even during times when you feel like there is no danger of getting anything in your eye. A stray piece of wood or metal, or even a chip of paint, can cause serious injury or infection if it lands in your eye.

When painting or working with chemicals, wear a facemask to avoid inhaling fumes. It is also advisable to keep the area well ventilated; open windows and turn on fans. If you are using any power tools or other loud equipment, wear earplugs or other hearing protection. Prolonged exposure to loud noise can cause permanent hearing loss.

Wear work gloves whenever you are handling glass or sheet metal, or doing demolition work. Your best bet are reinforced palm gloves, which are made from two layers of leather. You should also wear steel-toed boots and head protection.

Working with Electricity

Use RCDs (residual current devices), which can respond to changes in the flow of an electric current and disconnect its power supply to reduce the risk of electrocution. Never overload a socket with too many plugs or adaptors.

Do not allow cables to become kinked, frayed, or tangled. Ensure that they are properly fused.

Always switch off the mains before investigating a blown fuse, and replace the cover before turning it back on.

Working with Gas

When working with gas, always work in an open, well ventilated area.Gas is heavier than air and will not disperse in a confined area. A build up of the gas can be fatal.

Never allow an open flame to be near a gas source, and never smoke while working with gas.

By applying soapy water to gas hoses, you can spot leaks. Look for the bubbles. Never ignore the smell of gas.

Ladder Safety

When leaning a ladder against a building or wall, be sure that the base is extended one measure away from the wall for every four measures of height. Always place ladder feet on solid, level ground. Never lean a ladder against a gutter or windowsill. Wear sensible shoes while on a ladder.

Handling an Emergency

Always have a first aid kit on hand to address non-serious injuries such as scrapes, mild burns, and small cuts.

Immediately reduce the danger of further injury by turning off the electrical supply, putting out the fire, or doing whatever else needs to be done to ensure the safety of everyone there.

Burns - Run cold water over the burn for 10 minutes. Take off any jewelry, belts, or binding clothing, as burned skin can begin to swell quickly. Cover the burn with a clean, smooth cloth or gauze to prevent infection. Never rub butter or oil into a burn. If the burn is severe, seek medical attention right away.

Cuts - Clean the cut with running water. To stop bleeding, apply pressure using a clean cloth or bandage. If possible, ask the injured person to hold the cut up above their heart. He or she may need to sit or lie down to avoid feeling dizzy. Get medical attention if the bleeding will not stop or if the cut is severe.

Call 999 if the injured person - has lost consciousness for any period of time, even if he or she has since woken up; has difficulty breathing; is drowsy or vomiting; is bleeding from the ear or is bleeding so profusely that it cannot be stopped; is seriously burned; or has severe pain anywhere.